Posterous theme by Cory Watilo

J-Hopping

The end is a good place to start.

My last view of Japan was of Mt. Fuji, resplendent with its distinctive snow-capped, perfectly symmetrical cone. Twenty minutes into a nine-hour flight, I was just settling into a movie when it appeared into view -  Fuji-san, (the suffix implying mountain, but also san, the honorific, denoting reverence). Standing solitary and magnificent below my window, its trails of snow stretched like white veins to the bottom.  

 

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Fuji has a special place in the hearts of the Japanese as both a spiritual and cultural symbol. I'd caught glimpses of it almost two weeks earlier, when Juhi and I had ridden the Shinkansen towards Hakone. We'd left Tokyo behind and approached a landscape less densely populated, which stretched wider and wider to include the mountains that peered from the distance. From inside the superfast train, trees, houses and shapes blurred into one another. And there it had stood, Fuji, the unmistakeable white peak prominent. That was as far as our luck lasted. White, dense mist shrouded the view from our ferry on Lake Ashi, and from the ropeway towards Owakudani, and we missed what we hear is a brilliant view of the sacred mountain.

 

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There was plenty of consolation that day though. The ropeway ride from Togendai towards the sulphurous springs in Owakodani saw us floating on little cars suspended high over the mountain, and we watched the countryside unfold below us. We walked towards the hot springs, where the sharp, acrid smell of sulphur clung to the bitterly cold air. We ate eggs boiled black in the sulphur. We gained seven years apiece.

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A day before, we'd taken the toy train around Hakone through neat woods and gentle inclines. Hakone is picturesque beyond words, the impeccable little train stations adding an extra charm to this quiet, more serene part of the country. We visited the famous Hakone Open Air Museum, a spectacular offering of modern sculpture, painting and architecture, all spread outdoors over acres of land, with tall mountains standing like sentinels around us. The stately pieces had a special charm in that setting. If the Picasso Museum was the icing on the cake (I especially liked the series of portraits on his second wife, Jacqueline Roque), the foot-bath was the very welcome cherry atop the icing. We bathed our tired feet in hot (sixty degrees), fragrant water from a nearby hotspring, which was chanelled into a longitudinal pool. In almost minus-degree temperatures, the experience was heavenly. But lest you think this was the highlight of my hot-bath experience in Japan, I will warn you - much, much more was to come.  

 

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At our B&B in Hakone one morning, I got a treat- my first ever snowfall. Soft, evanescent flakes so dainty and beautiful that I couldn't quite believe it.

So after a long day of walking about in the chilly air, it only made sense to visit the Yunessun spa, which is famous for its hot baths. The B&B bus stand was so deserted that we seemed to be the only two souls in the universe. 

Cut to the spa experience. Now I'm a water-baby. And I love a hot bath. So a hot water soak in a pool really equals bliss in my book. Ju and I soaked ourselves at leisure in great pools of bubbling jacuzzis and deliciously hot water. We were spoilt for choice. We moved from green tea baths to hot wine baths, to hot chocolate baths. (Admittedly, it was not real hot chocolate, but chocolate flavoured water. Then again, it did feel plenty luxurious.) The outdoor baths were even more inviting. We bolted from bath to bath, the cold air vicious over our wet bathing suits, and plonked into tubs of hot comfort. We rode down the water slide screaming till we landed with giant splashes in the large pool. Wading through dimly lit cave-structures felt strangely adventurous. All this under the velvet sky and sparkling stars and in temperatures too cold to think in. There were pebbles underneath to massage our feet, there was a little waterfall of an affair with a rock pool all around, and at the tea bath, the water issued from a giant kettle above our heads. The Mori No Yun Onsen experience (similar to the other baths, with the sole exception that it required one to be clad in nothing) passed like a dream. That night, we slept like logs.  

Best of all, all this was complementary with our B&B deal. An excellent bargain, if ever there was one.

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Back in Tokyo the next day, we walked for what seemed like miles at the Meiji Jingu (the shrine dedicated to Emperor Meiji and his wife). There was a fascninating array of ice sculptures on display and barrels of sake mounted on either side of the long, wide road towards the shrine. We also happened to catch a wedding party in procession. I was taken by the votive tablets, rows upon rows of them, each with inscribed wishes and prayers. The priests would later make an offering of these tablets. We didn't write on any, but we did, later in the trip, read our fortunes a couple of times. The impression I got was that I'm generally doing okay. Tepid, I know, but it could've been worse! 

 

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Outside the shrine, we got a glimpse of some cosplayers. Kosupure is a popular performance art in Japan, just one instance of the fantastic subcultures that prevail in the country. 

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Tokyo, city of lights and sound. A flanneur's paradise and a pedestrian's dream, it would seem. I thought of Toru and Naoko from Norwegian Wood walking endlessly, down Shibuya, off Shinjuku, round and round wherever their whims took them. Ju and I had to walk everyday to the Kichijoji station, and the street life along Sun Road is something spectacular. Night fell and artistes would line the street with their guitars and pencils. On the last day, I whiled a couple of hours here just walking down from one lane to the next, noting landmarks like a Daiso here, a red light there, so I wouldn't lose my way.  

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A traditional Okinawa-style shop at Kichijoji.
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 Early one morning we caught the Shinkansen to Kyoto, dumped our luggage at Hana Hostel, the cutest backpackers' inn ever, and set off to do our day's share of temple-spotting. From the awe-inspiring golden pavilion Kinkakuji to the beautiful landscaped gardens of Tenryuji, the day was a treat. The next was cold and cloudy but we took in the thousand statues of the Buddha at Sanjusangendo and walked to the summit of Kiyomizudera temple, an imposing structure atop a hill that commanded a a beautiful view of Kyoto. A tour of the Imperial Palace followed. Our umbrellas came in handy at Gion, the geisha district (we were to lose them later). In the pouring rain, we walked through the dimly lit streets of Gion, in the hopes of spotting a geisha. This area, on the easten bank of the Kamogawa used to be a popular entertainment district.  

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The Imperial Palace garden at Kyoto.

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Hiroshima was an overwhelming experience. The bare bones of the erstwhile Community Hall (Ground Zero) stood mutely by the riverside in the gathering dusk. The ravages of the most lethal instrument of warfare are memorialized at the Museum, and the the beautiful, expansive Peace Park, where a flame burns continuously, embodies the hope and resillience of the Japanese people. A little girl's dream of overcoming her cancer takes wing in the form of thousands of paper cranes in her memory (and thousands more, around the world).
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On the ferry to Miyajima Island the next day, I watched in awe as we approached the giant saffron gate (Torii) while the waters lapped against the port. As we walked inland, a deer grabbed my map of the island and ate it off my hand. Mortified at the idea that I had just fed it something indigestible, I was relieved to find that the deer on the island, which were curious little creatures, routinely nip away at any bit of paper you leave dangling. Miyajima was where we discoverd old, rusty coins encrusted on the sand at the foot of the Torii, and embedded on the walls of the pillar. I stuck a five-yen (coin with a hole) on the pillar for good luck.  

The best, and most exhausting part of the trip was the trek to the top of Mt. Misen. What must have taken us at least 3 hours back and forth was also one heck of a workout. We trotted and dawdled and lagged behind as we climbed up to the summit. The view from the top was, as they say, well worth it.   

 

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On to Nara, where we saw a five-storeyed pagoda and fed more deer at the Todaiji temple lawns. The walk around Nara was lovely, and of particular quaintness were the warning signs on the road about deer and racoon crossings. 


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Little Kota ladling water out of a pool. He was terrified of the deer, bless him.

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The highlight of the day was eating at Kura, a Kaitenzushi near Nara. The sushi and sashimi arrived on a little conveyor belt and we picked out the ones we wanted. I didn't think raw fish would taste that good. I had salmon (sake), shrimp (ebi), soyabean (natto), crab salad (kani), squid (ika)  and tuna (maguro). Thanks to the lovely Japanese family that took us there. 

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At Osaka the next day, we boarded at J-Hoppers, where we encountered a very funny old man who insisted on teaching on Osaka colloquialisms. We did a mini tour of the Panasonic centre, where the most magnificent electronics were on display. Now I'm not a tech geek, but looking at the sophisticated appliances there, I knew I could easily turn into one.

At the Osaka kaiyukan (Aquarium), the sea creatures took my breath away. See this jellyfish for instance.

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And finally, we came to Kanazawa in Ishigawa Prefecture, the marsh of gold. We took the Thunderbird train there and arrived on a cold, snowy night. The station was adorned with stunning cold decoration. Our pension was a very small, minimally furnished one, with a sole kerosene-powered heater in the room and a mere plyboard separating our room from the next (Two rooms in total). Discovering that the place only had a coin-operated timed shower, and used to our hot long baths, we decided to skip it and quickly made our beds on the tatami mats, packed a few essentials and headed off to the nearest onsen- Higashimaya. This onsen was a more traditional affair than the lavish do at Yunessan, but it was the real deal, an actual Japanese bath. The water was very hot and this time, I didn't last very long, and began to feel quite dizzy very soon.

When we were done, warm and smug in our many layers, we walked through the quiet roads while the snow fell gently on our umbrellas- soft, mesmerising white flakes. I told Ju right then that I would never forget that moment. It was as if I was walking in a dream.

The next day, we visited the Gold Leaf Factory and Museum at the Higachi Macha District, where we saw artisans at work on the most beautiful gold artefacts. Pounded into thin delicate sheets, gold leaf of Kanazawa is famous all over Japan (Indeed, ninety nine percent of Japan's gold leaf originates there) and is used for decorating lacquerwork, cloth and numerous other objects. We even sampled Kanazawa gold-flaked tea.

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Shima Tea House (an old Japanese geisha house) welcomed us next. Built in 1820, it is preserved in its original state and hence is important cultural property in the country. I could imagine a group of merchants sitting sipping cups of green tea while geishas float in, dancing gracefully, entertaining them.

 

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Accessories used by geishas once upon a time.

 

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Spotted this Japanese girl in a kimono at a rest house and she very gladly posed for pictures.


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The beautiful Kenro-ku-en gardens, where we saw how the pine trees are pruned and nurtured to attain the perfect shape.

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Back in Tokyo, we kicked off our travelling shoes, slept for half of a day, and met Eri-chan in the evening at Shibuya. We milled about with the crowd at the smoking zone where hordes of young people stood busy in chatter around Hachiko, the world's most loyal dog! 

Shibuya, the busiest intersection in the world. We stood inside the station gaping at this for a while.
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Treats at Kichiri, where Eri took us. Being an izakaya (casual food and drinks establishment), the ambience was loud and relaxed. Ate truffle egg rice, octopus risotto, cheese and tofu salad with dashi, accompanied with plum and peach liqueurs.

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And of course, we had to try our hand at Purikura (Print Club). We posed for pictures in a tiny photo booth, and rushed to another booth to decorate the pictures with captions, fancy layouts and special effects. The funniest part was that the machine automatically enlarges and darkens your eyes so the resulting pictures, while recognizable, made us look like anime versions of ourselves! But thanks to lovely Eri, without whose help we would've been lost deciphering the instructions, we have cute little stickers for keepsakes.

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My last moring in Japan was spent at the Studio Ghibli Museum. Now I may not have watched all of Studio Ghibli's movies, but I loved the ones I've seen, and I was a little kid again at this place. Discovering the mystery behind animation, recognising loved characters (like the Laputa robot below), enjoying a short anime about mice-turning-sumo-wrestlers, admiring the artists' workshop and the piles of  illustrations laid out, we jumped about from one place to the next in the sprawling maze-like interiors. We ended the day savouring cassis and raspberry icecream while walking back to Kichijoji.

They didn't allow pictures inside, which was a pity. I sneakily took a few here and there.

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My stay wouldn't have been complete without the Japanese karaoke experience. Ju and I sang our hearts out to Gaga and the Cranberries and what have you. We didn't want it to end.

But like all good things, that, and my trip along with it, did come to an end. But not before I'd sampled the finest of Japanese (and Indian) hospitality in that lovely little archipelago. I'd done almost everything on my list (bowed-clapped-joined hands at a Shinto shrine, gorged on Onegiri, written a haiku at Ryoanji, etc) and then some (visited Tokyo University of Foreign Studies and got lost in the library there, browsed around the most spellbinding, biggest mall in those parts-Takashimaya, etc). 

Now if I can only go back once again in sakura season, I'll be a happy little puppy. Oh, to see Japan decked in its cherry blossoms!

Maybe one day. 

 

 

The Goblin Market

 

“We must not look at goblin men,

We must not buy their fruits:

Who knows upon what soil they fed

Their hungry thirsty roots?"


I’m never less sure-footed than when I step into Iewduh, with its labyrinth of cobbled pathways and narrow lanes, dubious flights of steps, mini-drains and most of all, its intoxicating assemblage of wares all gathered together within a few square metres of space, beckoning loudly to be gaped at. Having tripped countless times, I was especially wary that one June morning, when a great downpour had lashed over Shillong all of the previous night, leaving runnels of water to stream through its streets, which, when met with the small mounds of dirt and garbage that routinely litter the town, formed a muddy mess of incoherent proportions.  

 I listened to my converse shoes making horrible squelchy noises as I followed Bei into the interiors of the market. Iewduh is ill-fitted to welcome the rains. The sewage mingles freely with rainwater, and heaps of discarded vegetables, fish scales and other waste get washed in the current, and land up just about everywhere. The rain had stopped, but the sky was still in a sombre mood, and the drizzle from the awnings of the shops lined on either side of the path fell down my neck, but as it was impossible to hold an umbrella in the shrinking space, I tried to brave the cold droplets, routinely shielding my head with the woven jute bag I carried, before I stopped caring altogether.

Bei made her way ahead of me briskly, as always sure of the route she wanted to take. I admired the way she knew her way so well around the multiple cross-sectional lanes. I had once come to Iewduh alone and was cockily sure I was headed for the spices section, where neat little women in their jainkyrshahs and cups of tea sat behind small mountains of colourful, pungent spices. Instead, I was bewildered to find I had landed in the beef market, that masculine domain, where young men in blood-stained banyans shouted out if I wanted the morning’s finest khmat lybong and lamjew (rear flank and loin), before they proceeded to thwack hard at the chunks laid out on the old tree stubs they used as chopping boards. It was quite a while before I could finish the shopping that day.

So I kept as close a watch on Bei’s movements as I could while I clumsily manoeuvred through the crowd of people that had variously gathered at the market this early on a Saturday morning, some to set up shop, some to avoid the afternoon crowds and shop in peace (although that often proved futile), some to lug sacks and backloads of wares from the sumos and buses stationed outside the market to the shops and back. We passed the chicken sellers, and Bei paused to enquire about the price of the syiar khasi, ‘Khasi chickens’, the non-broiler, colourfully plumed, locally bred chicken variety that she likes for their chewy bones and unmatchable flavour in a good jadoh. I looked at the fat white chickens resting in their large bamboo baskets, envying them for a moment as they gently clucked, arrayed cosily in a swathe of snowy feathers, unmindful of the din and wet. The girl minding the shop wore a tight white top that hugged her plump figure.  She was ruddy-cheeked, and had a loud red lipstick on and dangling gold earrings with green stones in them.   

Kane, Kong, shi kilo shiteng, plung bha’, she said, Take this, Kong, one and half kilos, very healthy,   after plucking out one specimen from a basket and throwing it on the scales. My mother nodded in agreement, and I quickly averted my eyes as the girl handed the struggling bird to the boy behind her and he proceeded to plonk it into a barrel. I was an unrepentant meat-eater but was never prepared for the sights and sounds at this place: loud screeches followed by the subsequent flapping of wings, which died down piteously after a while. I told my mother I was off to the fruit sellers’ to pick some plums and that I would meet her at Mahajon’s, the grocer’s shop. I gingerly treaded over the damp ramp that led to the next lane, walked away, and that was when I first saw him.

He was sitting at the corner of a long line of fruit shops. The canopy over the last shop, weighed down by a puddle of rainwater, almost hid him, but something drew my attention and I stared. It was a gleaming silver pipe he had in his mouth, that shone brilliantly amidst the squalor. He seemed to be sitting under the shade of a jut of roof projecting out from the ramshackle buildings that sat in the heart of the market and had in front of him what looked like a heap of plums on a wooden stool. I was around ten feet away when I realised with a shock that he wasn’t sitting at all but was short statured: a shaggy-bearded dwarf of a man smoking jauntily on his silver pipe, relaxed and unrushed, at the end of a row of women busily doling out fruit to hurried customers, pocketing money and laughing and talking loudly. As I drew nearer, I was amazed to see that he was not in the least bit dishevelled or dressed-down like everyone else, but wore a brown suit with dark maroon stripes and pointed shoes.  He looked in my direction, and beckoned to me. I looked around, but nobody seemed to heed him. When I looked back at him, he shook his head, pointed at me, and waved for me to come in his direction. I stared, astonished.

A loud swish behind me announced the passage of a daiju bearing a heavy load. He made a customary tchh tchh sound, which asked me not to dawdle. I suddenly felt uncertain of my step. I tried to move forward but there was another man blocking my path. I inched past him sideways holding my bag at an odd angle, and walked straight into something large and soft, just as the daijju, grumbling loudly, heaved himself past me and stepped right on my foot. In a daze of confusion and pain, I felt my grip on the bag loosening, and then I let go of it altogether to pat my aching foot. The something large and soft turned out to be a woman with a generous bosom and bulging belly, clad in a yellow-checked jainkyrshah, and a mouth profusely red with kwai stains. Peit bha seh khun!, she yelled at me. Look sharp, child! I muttered an apology before reaching out to pick my mud-speckled bag and quickly cast a glance in the direction of the solitary dwarf-man with his plums. He was gone.

I stood baffled for a moment, checked myself, and walked up to the woman who sat closest to the corner. The smell of peaches clouded my brain for a second. The woman saw me approaching and said, Kwah soh aiu khun? Shim soh plum, ba thiang kum uei! What fruit would you like, my child? See the plums, as sweet as anything! I touched the prickles of one of the jackfruits lining her counter, that looked like enlarged, frozen goosebumps. I shivered.

Ngan dang peit, kong, asking for time to look around. 

There were big bunches of bananas hanging out of wooden boards on the side. Some were bright yellow, others a cool green. I noticed, tucked away in a nook, still more that were of a darker colour. I wondered what they did with overripe or rotten fruit. There was bound to be rotten fruit, I thought. I plucked up courage and put a question.

Kong, Do you know where that man has gone off to?

U briew aiu?, she replied, what man?

I swallowed. I told her about the man I had seen sitting next to her shop, selling plums.

Phi bakla phi! Tang ma ngi hi kynthei hangne ba die soh!, she returned. You are mistaken. It’s only us womenfolk who sell fruit here.

I was flummoxed. She looked at me in a strange way. Not wanting her to question me, I quickly asked her about the price of sohphie, the little berry-like fruits I used to love as a child. The red ones looked sweet but I preferred the sharp tart of the green ones, especially in a good achar. But at that moment all I was thinking about was the little man who had mysteriously disappeared.

 I thought that maybe after I had bumped into the large soft woman, in the melee that followed, I must have missed him leaving his spot. But why did the fruit seller kong not seem to know what I was talking about? He’d looked solid and real, I was sure he wasn’t a figment of my imagination. And yet there had been something unreal about him, he had seemed out of place in some way. It wasn’t just what he looked like or what he was wearing, it was a certain air of insouciance that I could discern even from afar. He seemed untouched by the bustle and busyness of the marketplace. He had waved to me. He even looked a trifle amused, smoking his gleaming silver pipe. Was it actually silver? It may have been glass, and caught the light for a second and fooled me. But I looked at the sky, still ominously grey, and knew there wasn’t a spark of sunshine to be savoured that morning.

I paid for the sohphie and left, turning at the corner where I had seen the man. I caught a strong whiff of tobacco smoke. It was a smell that reminded me of the kind of tobacco my grandfather used to smoke way back- he’d roll out brownish flakes from a green pouch into his palm, add a pinch of lime, and rub the mixture with his thumb, like he was massaging his palm. He would then neatly tap the lot into the bowl of the pipe, hold a burning match to it, and as soon as it gathered smoke, he would hold it by the stem and take a deep puff. I would look on, fascinated, as the tobacco would shrivel up as he inhaled, and the smoke would come out in curly wisps from his mouth.

After taking a few wrong turns, I finally spotted my mother at a junction of sorts. She was buying putharo from an old woman who sat on a ledge-like projection at the side of the steps leading down to the jadoh stalls. I always wondered at how precariously perched she seemed to be, but when I reached closer, I couldn’t help noticing how snug and intimate her little corner looked. She had a light tapmohkhlieh wrapped around her head, and hardly any teeth. There was a tiny little charcoal Chula in front of her where she warmed her hands, and looking at how gnarled they were as she handed us the steamed rice cakes in their banana-leaf-and-twine packets, I recalled that the dwarf-man had also seemed old, or was it just because of his aspect of worldly-wiseness that I thought so? I felt uneasy thinking that I was obsessed with a mysterious creature no one seemed to know anything about. I thought of mentioning it to my mother but she would have simply laughed at the part where I got stepped on/collided with someone and so I desisted.

Oh look, it’s Niasan Wa!, I heard my mother say. I turned to see Niasan, a doughty woman with short cropped hair and many chins greet my mother before she turned to me and slapped me on the back.

Ade! Da heh ko! You’ve grown up! What are you doing now?

I told her I had just completed my 12th board exams. I dreaded this question not because I wasn’t thrilled at this brief lull from studies that afforded me all the time in the world to laze around and read, but because it usually entailed a further query.

Ish! So what are your next plans?

I sheepishly muttered something about not being sure.

Weileh! Lai doktor ko nong!But why? Won’t she become a doctor? 

I was thankful that my mother intervened and said, We’ll see, whatever she gets is fine, I’m keeping her occupied for these holidays.

The worst part of being on the brink of stepping out of your teens was this perpetual uncertainty. I was uncertain over whether I had any right to counter adults, of whether I had licence to say what I thought, or whether what I thought had any import at all. I hadn’t carved out a plan for myself and didn’t know if I was expected to have a shiny, polished blueprint of my life at the ready to show to curious distant relatives whom I met once in three years. My dreaded exams had come and gone, and I was none the clearer about what further course of study I wanted to take up. I kept thinking I would slide into wanting what everyone else wanted for me. But the uncertainty hounded me constantly. There was also my unceasing doubt over the validity of my own thoughts, the fear of being rejected outright and thus feeling like I needed to think twice before I brought up things like fanciful dwarf-men who apparently only I could see.

 I remembered a story that had been taught in an English Literature class in school some years ago. A girl goes to a market to buy apples, when she suddenly sees a bubble emerge from the grocer’s head with the words, “Oh it’s just Tess, and not her mother today, maybe I can get rid of some of these bad apples.” Similar thought-bubbles appear all day when she talks to people she meets. At the end of the day she still hadn’t told anyone about them for fear of being laughed at. I realised that if there existed the strange possibility that I was the only one who had seen the man, it could be equally true that thought bubbles were right now emerging from my head, displaying my errant thoughts to Bei and Niasan.

I wrestled with this thought for a moment and knew I had to find him again, if just to convince myself that I hadn’t gone stark raving mad.

Bei, I’ll go get those plums, I couldn’t get them earlier, ok?

Oh yes, while you’re at it, go collect the onions, oil and tea at Mahajon’s shop, I left the bags there.

I nodded, said goodbye to Niasan Wa and hurried off, leaving the two women to do their catching-up. I hoped I wouldn’t get lost again.

Deep inside the market, profuse with wares of meat, fish, vegetables, fruits, spices and groceries, was a line of small cubby-holes that sold clothes, hosiery, shoes, knick-knacks and for as long as I remember, tiny red tubs of Chinese Tiger balm. I was always fascinated by the array of garments of display. I passed a shop where was hung a shiny pink satin top, a lime-green baby’s suit with orange piping, and a line of brassieres in pastels. A woman with long manicured nails sat chatting on her cell phone and she was biting into a plum. I could see how juicy it was inside, its pulp was the colour of blood. My mouth watered a little.

I kept walking, uncertain of where I was going. The market was getting more crowded and noisier now. I had had just a slice of bread in the morning and felt a sudden pang of hunger uncoil in my insides. The sky had started to clear up.  I wiped a bead of sweat trickling down my temple with the back of my hand. I didn’t want to walk anymore. The ktung stalls came into sight and the force of the sharp smell of dried-fish slid up my throat and I felt a little faint. If I closed my eyes here, I thought, I could easily tell where I am. The thought wandered and I decided that if I closed my eyes anywhere in Iewduh, I could tell where I was simply by the smell around me. The pungency of ktung, the strong aroma of spices, the odour of beef-shanks, the fresh damp smell of carrots and beans and leafy vegetables with a bit of earth clinging to their roots, the fusty smell of labour, sweat and tiredness. I walked on in a daze, turned a corner, closed my eyes and inhaled. Somewhere along the fuzzy edges of my brain, I registered a familiar scent, a sweet juicy core covered by a sharp, estery skin. I opened my eyes to see the dwarf-man a few feet in front of me with a glossy mound of plums sitting before him.

I was astonished, but also felt a twinge of relief. I hadn’t imagined him after all. And there was something else- the delectable fruit in front of him which shone like they had been polished. I knew what I wanted to have a taste of then. Nothing else, and no one else’s would do.

 This time the man was sitting between two empty stalls, which looked like the last occupants had been vegetable-sellers. There were some rotting pumpkins adorning one of the stalls. The man beckoned to me, and said as I approached him, Ale seh khun! Wan kloi! Come, dear child. Come quickly!

As I drew near, I took a look of him and noticed that he looked old and gray, although his eyes twinkled mischievously. There was spittle around his mouth, and he chewed kwai continuously. The smell of tobacco smoke was strong. That quality I had noted – of being carefree and untouched by the commerce of the marketplace – was more visible than before, it seemed to emerge out of his very eyes, out of his short stature, out of his prim get-up. I was not tall for seventeen, but he was at least a foot shorter than I was . There was no sign of the silver pipe.

Thied seh khon, thied! Thing kum ba phim juh ioh mad mynno mynno ruh! Sweet like you’ve never tasted them before.

I looked first at him, then at the glistening pile of plums. I could feel their fragrance wafting up my nose. I must have looked doubtful, because he said, Wat ju artatien, khun. Theid beit, nga kular dei u ba thing!  Do not doubt. I promise you they are sweet.

Em bah,nga shu theid tang ban bam mynta. No sir, I thought I’d just buy a few to eat now.

He tossed his head and laughed. Hooid, hooid, shim, shim! Yes yes, here, take.

I meant to ask him how he had vanished from his previous station and why the woman there said she hadn’t known he was there. I wanted to ask him about his silver pipe and why he wore the clothes he wore, why he sold only plums, where he got them from and why they looked so irresistible, whether he came there regularly or was only there today, where he came from and why he seemed to enjoy being alone.

Instead, my hand reached for one of the plums. I remembered my mother being picky about where she bought every single vegetable from. They had to look and be priced the best. I thought, surely, if she saw these plums, she would agree they looked better than any other that could be bought elsewhere. The man seemed overjoyed. I suddenly remembered stories I had heard when I was younger, about bad spirits that took the form of dwarves, who could only be vanquished if one kept one’s head up. My grandmother had said that if I looked down when encountering a dwarf, he would grow taller and taller while I would become smaller and smaller. In a flash, he would walk over me and I would shrink to nothing. If I looked up, however, the opposite would happen, and I would thus conquer him. When I was younger, left alone, I would walk with my chin held up for fear of accidentally looking down when I met a dwarf. That was when I first started bumping into things and missing my step.

The man looked at me quizzically. The smell was getting heady. I banished all thoughts from my mind, took the plum, gave it a wipe on my shirt, and bit into it.

It was bliss. It was sweet and succulent, like nothing I had had before. The pulp was ripe and juicy and the skin had a sudden sour tang that seemed to shoot down my spine. My parched throat felt soothed and relieved. I sucked the seed dry. I took another.

Wat ju artatien.

I ate four plums. All the while, the man watched, delighted. Bam khun, bam, wat ju artatien! Eat child, do not doubt!

I felt doubt slip away. I ate till I was sated. I forgot that I must have looked a sight standing in the middle of a busy market area eating plums while the seller looked on, but I didn’t care. Strangely, I felt like no one was interested anyway. The market seemed to get on, and no one gave a second thought about the dwarf-man and me. There were now only specks of clouds in the sky and the sun came out in a brilliant moment, and we were flooded in warmth.

I made to pay, but the man waved me off.

Ym lei lei khun, he said. Tang ba phi lah bang.

It’s alright, my child. As long as you have eaten well.

I gulped, but could not refuse. I thanked him, gave him one last look and turned to leave. I did not look back until I had gone many steps ahead and when at last I did, he had gone.

I felt feverish that night, thinking about the long walk, my slightly swollen foot, the heavy bags, the tired ride home. But I lay awake pondering over what the man had repeated so often. Wat ju artatien. Do not doubt. I slept fitfully, with images of the little man, silver pipes, throngs of people, Niasan Wa, baskets upon baskets of fruit, fat little chickens, and, above all, juicy plums, parading in a blur through thick, enveloping rain in my dreams.

When I woke up in the morning, my head was a lot clearer, except for the words Wat ju artatien which kept resounding like a mantra in my head. I didn’t know why, but I felt, for the first time in long time, a sense of certainty. I felt that I wasn’t going to let people put ideas into my head, because there were more than enough of my own to deal with. I was going to have my fill of the holidays and would then begin something new because I wanted to, not because I was made to feel I did. I had sought out my little man, and he was right there, as real as anything, as sure as the big fat droplets of rain that fell from the sky.

A year later in college I read Christina Rossetti’s Goblin Market, and I remembered the ripe, glistening plums that I had had that day, and I was sure they had been as good as any magical, dew-slicked goblin fruit could ever be. 

 

Bookish Things

A few bookmarks I love. Thanks to Tanya, Trisha, Juhi. :)

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And these are courtesy O, The Oprah Magazine. No, I'm not a regular reader.

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This was a D.I.Y. effort which, suffice to say, exhausted me. (I'm done for the year). A Kindle nook! 

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Magical Living

"Might I," quavered Mary, "might I have a bit of earth?"

-Frances Hodgson Burnett, The Secret Garden

  Before summer and its whims dropped upon us, there was a furious spring laden with mad winds, which woke up a slumberous city that was stretching itself awake.

On such a spring day two months ago, a gnarled old pine tree at home, weak and rotting at the stem, fell victim to the harsh weather. Just as the rain stopped, it crashed down into our front yard from the garden above. It was to be axed down this winter but evidently its craggy bulk couldn’t withstand the gale, and so it fell.

I mourn whenever a tree falls. There’s a trusty Jacaranda by the driveway that I would especially hate to lose. In late spring, its bell-shaped flowers are a gorgeous lavender. In summer, they droop with the weight of raindrops and fall down forming clusters, which become vast purple puddles when the torrents beat down.

And so on that day, I gasped in awe at the giant tree stem, lying prone in the yard, like a great man fallen and disfigured in war. Its bark had peeled off in places and a multitude of little insects severed from their habitat were crawling out in swarms.  There was wood debris littered all over, and the air still crackled with the weight of the fall. Its body had split in a few places and despite the nippy winds and the drizzle, my father set to work and chopped it up into smaller pieces, to make disposing it off easier. The wood was wet through but if I knew that if we dried it out on sunny days, it would make for good firewood for the coming winter. This early in the year, I imagined feeding large chunks of aged, deep brown pine wood into the fireplace, watching it snarl in the fire, before billowing up in spirals of smoke up the chimney.

There was even a bit of wood curiously shaped like a rocking horse. It had what could easily have been a seat, with four unwieldy ‘legs’ splayed out, supporting it. Had I been nimble and creative with my hands, I knew I had my next project right there. But as it happened, this makeshift horse soon tottered and collapsed.

While my father worked at the chopping, I picked up the innumerable fragments of wood and put them into a khoh (a conical cane basket slung on one’s back), and swept up the finer bits and pieces. Moose, for whom any conceivable activity that involves humans moving around holding something in their hands is a game, immediately proceeded to stall my progress, by running frantically about, wresting the broom from my grip, sniffing and yapping at the insects and generally being a pest.

Working at the yard, I wondered at the circumstances that had brought me to Shillong again after many years in Delhi.  I had gotten used to living in a big, fast city, and appreciated the differences it afforded, many worlds removed from the quaint, small-town quality of a place like Shillong. In Delhi, I struggled with the pace, I cursed the uncouth streets, I luxuriated in the long hours of the night, and forgot what mornings looked like when my circadian rhythm went awry. I was dazzled by shiny buildings and never-ending expanses of road, by esoteric streets pulsing with the beat of many lives. And yet I routinely missed one thing.

I missed my bit of sky and earth. I wanted to lie on the ground and gaze at a cottony patch of wispy clouds against a cerulean sky. I wanted to hold clumps of earth in my hand. I missed pure mountain air. I wanted to swallow lungfulls of it, cold and bracing, run up a hill, reach the summit, and look down at what I had left behind, in a thrill of adventure. I missed the vantage point of peaks, my own home being located on one, and feeling lofted and giddy on seeing a hundred little toy-houses sprawled in the distance, between folds of green hills and winding silver roads. I always knew that the hills would forever make my heart contract in the pain of beholding beauty, in the awareness of infinite promise.

And so whenever I came back, I hogged it all. I romanticised every little flower, every drop of pure rain. I watched many brilliant, tawny sunsets. I went crazy taking pictures, most of them bad (and many of them in this blog).  It was not that I needed a foil to appreciate the natural world better, but the stark contrasts of the two cities merely intensified the experience for me. On days when I packed and travelled at breakneck speed, braving Delhi’s searing heat and chaotic traffic, I wouldn’t breathe easy even on reaching Guwahati. Only when Umiam drew near and I saw its calm waters glistening in the dark and felt a cold breeze ruffle my hair would I feel at home. This was where it was.

I delighted in taking trips out of the town. I revelled in long drives. Seeing deep valleys stately in their magnificence would make my breath catch. Farmland, rugged terrain, man-made paths cut into cliffs, dewy stalks, elegant pumpkin patches, lanky bamboo plants, sparkling streams and buoyant waterfalls  ̶  this was the landscape I cast my stories in. It was fairy-land; it was vibrant, alive, kissed by the gods.

I started marvelling at the magic that the earth worked. I admired pretty flower beds and vegetable patches. I vowed to one day develop a green thumb, where mine was twiddly and idle. My mother’s pudina and chilli patches and her beds of lettuce and spinach are hallowed ground. We recycle our refuse and wait for it to become rich, life-giving soil.  We wait for the peach and pear trees to bear fruit each year, upon which time it is impossible to keep pace with the birds’ endless pecking at the sweet core. I have bottled jams, stewed fruits and relished them with fresh cream. (No, we don’t keep cows). My father has brought home a haul of fine, organic potatoes from his workplace, where he initiated cultivation in an unused patch of land. (Who knew chemists were into potato-farming?)  They were good potatoes, sweet to the taste, spuds of virgin soil. I have nibbled at tender corn roasted in a chulha, grown off the same patch. I have been fascinated by Barbara Kingsolver's magical rendering of one year of seasonal eating in Animal, Vegetable, Miracle, lent to me by a friend (to whom I’m eternally grateful). I wonder if the day will ever come when I will experiment with growing asparagus.

I continued to pick up the fragments, now reduced in number. I lent my father a hand in heaving the large chunks to a corner, where the morning would find them. Our work was done, and I headed indoors, flushed and happy with the effort. Moose, grungy and begrimed, made for his den, dragging a rogue piece of wood to chew for the night. 

~

I think about Shillong and realise, with a sense of dismay, that it has become increasingly polluted and is no longer the verdant, salubrious hill town it once was. It is still quaint and pretty in many ways, but lack of proper planning, bad management and general public apathy are slowly turning it into a disorganised, congested mess. The sight of its streams, choking with garbage and filth, makes my heart ache. Similar conditions prevail around the state where many a green, beautiful hillock has turned into a jut of dry, naked earth, shorn of colour and robbed of vitality. In some parts, we are losing our trees and our clean air, our rivers and our drinking water because of the blight of mining, which, unregulated, continues to extirpate the life-blood of the land. I hope it’s not too late. I would hate to lose this charmed land to the fate that befalls so many places around the world. I would hate to lose my bit of earth here, my bits of a mackerel sky. 

(Published by the folks at The Shillong Times, Sunday Canvas, 14/08/'11) 

Getting By

 

This is a sullen city. It is cloaked in grey, lugubrious, cast with the cares of thousands of lives. It breathes its dull vapour around the many trudging back home on squelchy pavements. It stares impassively at their wet shoes, their brittle hearts. Their hands have swept grimy floors and washed greasy dishes. They have scrubbed their knuckles raw working on hard concrete floors, on yards moulded with age. They carry baskets on their shoulders, burdens too. And the city looks on, unflinching.

                It is a brute that laughs at its poor. They get by, but only just. They work four jobs and rush home to cook dinner, to see that their kids do their homework.

                Since there are no fixed rules, there are no assurances.  

One of them told me today, I have gotten a job, at a hospital, as a cleaner!

                I congratulated her. It meant fixed hours, a pension, a leap up the scale. She is a smart, fast worker, rearing two children, running around the neighbourhood to clean people's houses and see that their utensils are sparkling, their lawns trimmed. She had filled in the form two years ago, and had lost hope. Yesterday, they finally called her.

Her voice quivering with excitement, she asked me, 'Is it true, you have to wear a frock?'